Spring Break Part 2: Adventures in La Fortuna

By the time we got to La Fortuna, we were tired from traveling and it had started to rain. We went to a random hostel and inquired about staying there because our reservations for La Fortuna Backpackers Hostel did not start until the next night. Unfortunately, the first hostel we tried was full. We were very fortunate though to meet a nice lady working there who called almost every hostel in La Fortuna trying to find a room for six soaking wet girls with a mountain of luggage standing desperately in front of her. She eventually found us a room at Chill Out Backpackers’ Hostel. We had our own private room with three bunks and a bathroom in the room. We were most excited about the lukewarm water in the shower and fresh towels (ours smelled like a a mixture between stinky feet and must from not drying in Puerto Viejo). I was very tired and not feeling well so stayed in the room with Hannah to watch Quantum of Solace and eat snacks in our pajamas. It was exactly what I needed.

The next morning, we woke up and had a free breakfast of eggs and toast at the hostel. But, what was more exciting than the free breakfast was the puppies that belonged to the owners. I was just eating breakfast when I spotted three adorable chow mix puppies clumsily walking through the grass. We played with them for at least an hour while discussing spirit animals; my friends said I was a dolphin (I was very flattered!). After breakfast, the kind owners of the hostel personally drove us to the clinic so that Hannah could get her toe checked out (she had stubbed it badly and didn’t want it to get infected).  We went to a coffee shop called My Coffee Lounge to use the Internet and indulge in smoothies and hot beverages. I had wonderful hot chocolate that was definitely homemade but not too rich. It was served very hot in a glass mug. My other friend Tori wasn’t feeling well so we checked into the next hostel, La Fortuna Backpackers, so she could rest. We were not a very healthy group, but I consider myself fortunate that I only had small bouts of stomach troubles. The healthy ones of us went to La Choza de Laurel; it ended up being a huge authentic meal, although it was one of the most delicious I ate the whole trip. I split an order of patacones (fried unripe plantains, mashed and fried again) and a typical chicken plate with two friends. Both were great choices and I was very full after eating all of my food. I also really enjoyed the costumes of the waitresses which I assume were traditional Costa Rican dresses. Everything there seemed rustic but very Costa Rican including the drip coffee on tables; this was a spectacle in which waitresses brought huge kettles of hot water to tables and poured it the drip coffee makers to make steaming hot Costa Rican coffee. Also, the small touches like hot pickled vegetables and homemade hot sauce really elevated the meal. We figured out our activities for the next few days in the afternoon and then ended up shopping and going to a chocolate shop (the Bailey’s truffle was decadent!). I think you can tell that I fit right in with my group of friends!

Sarai, Sarah S., and Hannah with the puppies

The tan one was my favorite, it was so fluffy!

Ready to go outside our hostel

Hot Chocolate  at My Coffee Place; it was a deliciously creamy and scalding hot

Lunch at La Choza de Laurel; clockwise from top left, patacones with guacamole, pico de gallo, and refried beans (it came with three huge patacones but Cynthia and I couldn’t keep our hands off of them before I took the picture), La Choza Typical Plate (I split it so it was twice this much food- rice, beans, grilled sweet plantain, mixed chayote and corn, salad, corn, hardboiled egg, and chicken), the huge dining area in the restaurant, hot pickled vegetables (I liked the onions and carrots the best)

On Friday, we tried a new restaurant for breakfast called Rainforest Café (not in at all like the one at Disney World). I tried the Agua Dulce con leche caliente (Sugar Cane Tea with hot milk), a specialty drink that I had wanted to try ever since we helped use the trapiche to extract sugar cane juice at El Sur. Although it was very sweet, I did enjoy the distinct flavor of the sugar cane as opposed to regular processed sugar. That afternoon, I went horseback riding. My horse’s name was Palomo, which means pigeon in English (still trying to figure out the reasoning behind that one). He was a heather gray color and made a nice ride although he always wanted to be near the front of the pack. Under the instruction of two local guides, we rode about 30 or 45 minutes to a place where we dismounted and changed into our swimsuits. We hiked about 20 minutes to the La Fortuna Waterfall. It was beautiful and more awe-inspiring than other waterfalls I had seen so far this semester. We waded a little ways and then climbed some rocks to get to the pool with the waterfall. The water was crystal clear but took my breath away when I stepped in it was so cold. The rush of the waterfall created a strong outward current in the water and made for fun swimming as long as you didn’t get too close. On the way back, we stopped at a Maleku village; Maleku is the only indigenous tribe in the North of Costa Rica (there are 23 in the South, mainly on the Caribbean side). We learned a little bit about their culture (“capi, capi” and holding up your fist means, “Hello, I hope you are doing well”). During the trip, I was able to have some surprisingly good Spanish conversations with one of my guides, Alonzo, and my shuttle driver. I think that much of my improvement in Spanish is just being more confident and not worrying too much about the correct tenses, etc. but just trying to speak without reserve. Later, all of us went to Restaurant Los Nenes for a nice dinner (it was Sarai’s last night with us). We ended up seeing a friend there with her parents; it’s a small world. The restaurant itself was very nice; the waiter was very attentive (unlike most other restaurants in Costa Rica, but tips are included in the bill so that could explain it) and even set in front of each of us the exact pieces of silverware we would need for our meal. Also, some dishes were brought out on fire and they would dim the lights as the whole restaurant focused on the table and excited patron the dish was destined for. I ordered a heart of palm salad, which was very fresh and beautifully presented, and the fish ceviche, one of the house specialties for a reason. Although already full, we got ice cream afterwards. I had a scoop of dulce de leche and a scoop of passion cake ice cream. I especially loved the latter, I want to try to make that cake!

Agua dulce, a good start to the morning

Left, a view of the mountains (Arenal Volcano is to the right out of the frame); right, La Fortuna Waterfall, where we went to swim

Left, the horses; right, me and Palomo

Left, masks hand-painted by members of the Maleku tribe; right, huts at the village

Left, heart of palm salad with balsamic vinegar and olive oil; right, fish ceviche with tortilla chips and a creamy sauce

Arenal Volcano with a halo effect created by afternoon clouds

Spring break group

All three “Sarah”s

Sunday morning was Easter. As I was eating breakfast (typically guayaba, trail mix, and tropical fruit yogurt), I heard singing coming from a nearby church; it was really beautiful and made me feel connected to the holiday and my faith. I had never spent Easter with people that don’t celebrate but that moment and my own personal time that morning were really important for remembering the importance of the day. We said goodbye to Adopted Sarai early in the morning. Around 11, we went to Baldi Hot Springs for the day. Our passes were for 10 am to 10 pm and included a meal; we were determined to make the most of the much anticipated hot springs and spend all day there. There are 25 pools that were heated by hot springs and had varying temperatures; also, in case the hot pools were not enough, there was a huge jacuzzi, several cold pools, water falls, three slides, a sauna, and several swim-up bars. We explored everything there and I absolutely cannot pick a favorite part. I could literally sit in hot water until I am about to faint but tried to pace myself and took some time to lay out on the chairs and explore the gardens. I treated myself to reading a Costa Rican food magazine, Sabores, I bought at the MegaSuper and we all had a ridiculously expensive but delicious cocktail at the swim-up bar. The buffet dinner was also wonderful; I enjoyed the plethora of options, especially the salad, fruit, hummus, and tea.

Baldi Hot Springs (it still eludes me why the fat lady is placed at the entrance)

Monday was April Fools’ Day. Unfortunately, no pranks or practical jokes were played. We did have a delicious brunch at Soda Ara. Sodas are small restaurants that serve cheap, authentic food and usually have quick service. I ordered an omelet with the fruit plate. I did not realize how much food I ordered until my plates came out. The fruit was some of the best I have had in Costa Rica; it was all cold and arranged beautifully on the plate, including banana, mango (which I think I might actually like now), pineapple, and watermelon. The omelet was a classic combination of ham and cheese; it was also far bigger than I had guessed. But, I managed to clean my plate and be full the rest of the day. Two buses, two taxi rides, and six hours later we were back at the Center. All of us were very tired but excited to see our friends and hear about their spring breaks. Like all good things, spring break had to come to end but it is definitely a week that I will always remember and cherish.

Spring Break Part 1: Chilling in Puerto Viejo

Spring break fell during Semana Santa (Holy Week); this turned out to be both a blessing and a curse. It fell at a nice time during our semester, so that it seemed like we got back from Nicaragua, had a rough few days, and then got to leave again for an amazing adventure. But, we soon found out that Semana Santa means that transportation is very difficult and that most things in less touristy places are closed (not just for Easter Sunday but Thursday through Sunday). Despite the inconveniences, I was simply amazed at the importance and sanctity given to observing this holiday, the most important in the Christian calendar. I really liked that the Ticos aren’t afraid to close down everything so they can spend this special time with family and friends at church and at home. The Ticos that I spoke with on the bus and back at the Center spoke of spending lots of time with family and eating a lot of really good food, especially desserts (I think I would fit it minus the Spanish speaking!). 

There was a large group of us that left for Puerto Viejo at 7:00 am last Monday (Tico time meant that we didn’t really leave until 7:45). The ride was uneventful until we pulled off at a rest stop for Chan to use the bathroom; as I walked past the front of the bus I saw the driver’s husband using the fire extinguisher on the front left wheel. But, we just kept going and made it to Puerto Viejo around 1. On our way in, we realized we were no longer in Atenas. Poverty could be seen in the shacks that lined the road and contrasted with the palm trees and beautiful clear blue ocean. When we arrived, the driver proceeded to rip us off by saying that we agreed to pay 13 colones rather than $13, which we had all already paid. 13 mil colones is $26 dollars (1 mil colones= $2). But, we were happy to be there (although sweating profusely) and on spring break. We checked into Rocking J’s, the mother of all hostels. They had tents, hammocks, rooms, or beds in a dorm for rent. My group stayed in a dorm which proved relatively comfortable although my locker was mouse-infested. I found out about the mouse that night when there was granola all over my locker and my backpack had a hole chewed through it. The mouse even opened up completely sealed, unopened snacks.  For lunch, we waited for our meal of pizza and salads for at least an hour and half. We even saw one of the workers leave on his motor bike and come back with straws and napkins for our order. We learned that long meals were the norm and not the exception here. After lunch, we went the grocery store and then out on the beach during the late afternoon. It was very relaxing; I had a strawberry daiquiri cooler and my friends and I listened to live music. The water was so clear and very warm. But, I got devoured by sand flies. I stayed in that night; it had been an overall good day (mainly because of the beach), but definitely trying. I think I came pretty close to having a bit of a breakdown. I distinctly remember praying for a good attitude about spring break; looking back, I am very glad I did because it was the best spring break I have ever had.

 

The sign in front of our hostel, Rocking J’s

My first sunset in Puerto Viejo, spent listening to music with friends

Each day, I woke up around 6 am. This is due to some inherent alarm clock that I was blessed with; once I get in a routine of waking up early, it is impossible for me to sleep in. But, I enjoyed quiet mornings reading by the beach and eating a first breakfast. My group went to Puerto Viejo Bakery for breakfast (my second of the day, but who’s counting). It was one of the highlights of my trip. I was in bread heaven! I split a multigrain baguette with a friend that was almost as excited about it as I was. Disclaimer: good whole wheat bread doesn’t really exist in Costa Rica. But, this was amazing!!! It had poppy seeds, flax seeds, golden flax seeds, whole wheat flour, and probably other things. The chew of the bread and the slight nuttiness was beyond comparison. I could have easily eaten the whole thing. I also met someone from the town of Davidson that was studying abroad in Costa Rica; I know her father and worked closely with him in my internship last summer. It was truly a small world moment but it was amazing to make this connection and new friendship. My group had a morning of shopping that led to many of my friends buying splurge outfits and all of us getting hair wraps or braids (I got a braid with pale pink string and shell on the end). I also got some fruit at a fruit stand and proceeded to eat half of a watermelon and some homemade trail mix for lunch; it was light and perfect! We went to the beach for the afternoon. That evening we went to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner. I got the raw veggie ceviche which was a combination of unripe plantains, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and lime served with plantain chips. It was delicious but not super filling. We got caught in the pouring rain while trying to find a place to listen to live music; kind of an epic fail but fun regardless.

The bakery that we visited three times and my half of the multigrain baguette

View from the street along Puerto Viejo

My friend Hannah and I after getting our hair done, she got a wrap and I got a braid

My wonderful lunch, eaten on the beach

On our second full day in Puerto Viejo, I went to breakfast with two of my friends to a place I had read about in the travel guide, Bread and Chocolate. We were completely baffled as to what to get because everything on the menu sounded so delicious. All of the ingredients were natural and homemade, especially including the bread and chocolate. Our meal was amazing and we were pleasantly surprised by the friendliness and speed of the service. After breakfast, my friend Sarah S. and I went to look for the bus station and an ATM. We were going at a leisurely pace and stopping at shops, etc. At the bus station, we asked another English-speaking girl about the buses. One thing led to another and we just adopted her into our group. It turns out her name was “Sarah” too, but spelled Sarai. She was from Canada and here for her sister’s wedding to Tico man but traveling before the wedding.She hung out with us the rest of the day and then went with us to La Fortuna; so glad I got to befriend her! We had a late lunch at a restaurant called Monli. I had fish that was really delicious and had a Caribbean twist; the fish was served on the bone with the skin on but had tons of flavor and was piled with Caribbean spiced sauteed vegetables. I also really appreciated the extra spicy hot sauce. It was a slow meal so we finished lunch at 4 (this is very bizarre for a girl used to eating at 7 am, 12 noon, and 6 pm on the dot every day) and then went to the beach for a few hours. On the way back to our hostel, we stopped at the bakery again. I got a whole wheat baguette that I ate for dinner later because no one felt like a real meal. We had a chill night because some people were not feeling well but we mainly played cards and talked.

Needless to say I got, both bread and chocolate for breakfast at Bread and Chocolate, an amazing restaurant/bakery where we breakfasted. I ordered tea, French toast (with cream and very fresh strawberry preserves) and a Chai truffle; all were wonderful choices (and breakfast dessert is my absolute favorite!)

The last day in Puerto Viejo was a short one because we had tickets to leave at 9:30. We carried our luggage (never have I packed so light or been so happy I did) in the rain to the bakery/restaurant Pan Pay near the bus stop. I had a delicious breakfast of sunny-side-up fried eggs and toast. The bakery specialized in croissants though so on the way out I snagged a croissant filled with cream (again, I succumb to the temptation of having breakfast dessert). It was very good, although I was more impressed by the quality of the cream, which tasted like an excellent chocolate éclair custard filling, more than the croissant (they aren’t my first choice of baked good though, to be fair). We had a long day of traveling ahead of us. We first went to San Jose. Little did we know that San Jose would be a ghost town, with all restaurants, stores, and museums closed for Semana Santa. Our taxi drivers in San Jose convinced us it would not be a good idea to stay there (we wouldn’t be able to take public transportation to get out until Saturday) but that it would be a good idea to pay them $30/person to drive us to San Ramon in order to catch the last bus of the day to La Fortuna. We made a quick decision to do it. More of this epic tale in my next post, so stay tuned….

One last walk on the beach

View from the bus of the countryside near La Fortuna

Trip to Nicaragua

The bus stole off into the darkness on Wednesday morning, pulling out of the SFS driveway at 3 am on a mission. We would be at the Nicaraguan border near sunrise. When we got to the border, we turned in our customs forms and got our passports stamped. We got our first real taste of Nicaragua after we walked to the other side. There were people selling food, purses, shoes, and trinkets. Some were very old but desperation was on all of their faces. We exchanged money and tried to avoid eye contact with the Nicaraguans trying to sell us their wares. I learned that we would get used to having to say no to children and elderly vendors alike, accosting us on the street, in the park, and at restaurants. The poverty of this new country was very blatant and we could already see clear differences between Nicaragua and Costa Rica.

The ferry to Ometepe

After crossing the border and driving to Puerto San Jorge, we boarded a  ferry to Ometepe Island. I stayed at the bow of the boat, enjoying riding the waves for most of the ride. It was exhilarating, especially when we could see our destination, an island in the middle of freshwater Lake Nicaragua. There are two volcanoes on the island, Maderas and Concepción. They both loomed over the island with clouds all around the top, making them look like they were wearing wooly toboggans. I was impressed  by the massive mountains and could not stop smiling as we approached the island.

Ometepe Island was far better than I expected. It was beautiful and very Nicaraguan; although tourism is on the rise, the culture felt so intact. We were able to talk with locals, get accustomed to not drinking the tap water, and bump along on the unpaved, rocky roads. We ate Nicaraguan food and found it to be a more flavorful change from Costa Rican food, but weren’t surprised that gallo pinto was still a staple. Some highlights of the island were: visiting Finca Magdalena to see 1700 year old petroglyphs and the beautiful old coffee cooperative; swimming in the lake at sunset; swimming at Ojo de Agua, a swimming hole in the forest; and a visiting a beautiful waterfall.

 

Two of my favorite petroglyphs

Finca Magdalena

Ojo de Agua

La Catarata (the waterfall)

Over the next few days, we went back to the mainland of Nicaragua and were based out of Granada at La Posada del Sol. We visited Masaya and Managua as day trips. Managua was especially interesting; it is the capital city that was destroyed by a 1972 earthquake. It was eerily quiet and seemed deserted. There is no city center and it is one of the most forested capital cities. We went to an artisan's market in Masaya and finished buying most of our souvenirs. Both were unique experiences, but I really fell in love with Granada. It was a city that charmed us all with its colonial architecture, cheap prices, and outdoor cafes. However, there was a certain lack of authenticity from the comfortable attributes of the city and the fact that we only saw non-Nicaraguans on La Calzada (except those trying to sell us grass flowers and bracelets). But, the decaying colonial buildings, brightly colored houses situated side by side like horse stalls with family names beside each door, and the local market where I felt the most uncomfortable but alive and authentic all captured my heart. I also loved hiking Volcan Mombacho, the excellent food (especially baba ganoush and goat cheese), seeing the sunset from a bell tower, and visiting El Museo Nacional.

The view I woke up to every morning from my kitchen window

Volcan Masaya

El Museo

Volcan Mombacho

Sunset in Granada

Food Highlights:

Watermelon juice

A typical Nicaguan meal of beans, plantain chips, potatoes (these were very good- with onions and garlic), avocado salad, and delicious chicken

Shrimp chop suey- a nice change from Central American food

Homemade ginger ale at a John Lennon-inspired restaurant

Happy hour sangria

Some of the best gelato I have ever eaten, a mixture of dark chocolate and a sweet almond flavor (turrón)

The largest chocolate bar I have ever seen; my friend and I got this bar at the duty free shop at the border. It is very hard to find dark chocolate here so we jumped on this opportunity.

Chocolate Tour

Right now I have the post-vacation blues. It seems like this especially always happened when I was a kid, the day we came back from the beach seemed like a joyless, rainy, gloomy 4 hours. We were leaving my favorite place in the world and headed back to Lexington, to unpacking, to dreaded swim team practice, and long hot days.Right now, I am really struggling to not feel the same way. Yes, it  is true that I am in Costa Rica and that I am getting ready to go to Nicaragua Wednesday and that I have an all around extremely blessed life with friends and family that I love. But, still after this personal pep talk, I just keep comparing the now with the past 48 hours.

This weekend was everything I could have dreamt of. A month ago, a chocolate tour was just an idea that I was slightly overzealous about but was lucky enough to have friends that seemed almost as excited about the idea. I had seen an article on USA Today about chocolate tours in Costa Rica. I was thrilled that USA Today had already done the dirty work and found out reputable places. So, on my first real weekend off from my study abroad program, the chocolate tour became my top priority. Me and my three friends decided we would stay at the eco-lodge at the Tirimbina Reserve and go on the chocolate tour. It would be a splurge but after a week here we realized that good dark chocolate wasn’t easy to come by in Costa Rica, so we were looking forward to the tour like addicts needing their fix. Needless to say, we came back with dark chocolate burning a hole in our suitcases with elaborate plans for how to make it last the rest of the trip.

Theobroma cacao- the species used for making chocolate; theobroma translates to mean food (broma) of the gods (theo) as derived from the Mayan use of chocolate.

Below are some pictures of the experience (I apologize for the poor quality, it was very overcast and shady so not ideal lighting):

Tirimbina Reserve, the lodge is behind the sign. We had a comfortable (hot water in the shower and a nice quilt on the bed), affordable 4-person room with screen doors.

A cocoa tree in an old plantation that is sustainable and uses sustainable practices like inter-cropping (there are plantains and bananas planted there). This cacao tree is bent over because of age; it can live to be 50 years old.

A cacao pod

An open cacao pod with the seeds exposed; the seeds had a fruity, slightly tart flesh that we sucked off and then spit out the seeds.

A map with the location and general timeline of cacao production and chocolate making

Different stages of cacao production; this box is covered with banana leaves and the bacteria are allowed to grow.

The cacao, fermented and roasted, is ground with brown sugar and cinnamon in a volcanic rock mortar with a river rock.

This was a delicious mixture, it was so different from anything I had ever had. We went back for another handful! One of my favorite things of the tour; this would be dangerous for me to have around.

The whole process of making both chocolate bars and cocoa powder

Liquid chocolate in the stage right before it is poured in molds; I had 5 spoonfuls of this warm, magical chocolate.

The final product, pieces of chocolate in earthy shapes like this leaf.